Wooden Kokeshi Dolls and the Atmosphere of Traditional Healing Hot Springs
KUROISHI
Kuroishi is a castle town where the townspeople’s culture has flourished since the Edo period. Nakamachi Komise-dori, listed among the top 100 roads in Japan, lies in the heart of the city and is lined with artisanal shops and sake breweries. Located in the mountains nearby, the Nuruyu district has over 400 years of history as a healing hot spring area and is the place where traditional wooden kokeshi dolls were born. The town is full to the brim with stylish destinations.
1 The Three Famous Hot Springs of Kuroishi
Warm yourself in the waters of Nuruyu
Located just outside of Kuroishi, Nuruyu Onsen is a rustic healing hot spring with over 400 years of history. The onsen village is full of ryokan, guesthouses, and traditional lodgings known as kyakusha that all surround just one public bathhouse called Tsuru no Yu. The name Nuruyu is written with the character 温 (nuru), which means warm, and 湯 (yu), which refers to the hot waters of the baths. Soaking in the baths warms the body to the core, and some say that during the Edo period, a noble from the capital named the area Nuruyu for this reason. (There are various theories).
Healing for cranes and people too, Tsuru no Meiyu Public Bathhouse
It is said that the spring at the Tsuru no Yu Public Bathhouse was discovered when a crane, or tsuru, was seen healing an injury in the waters there. The name Tsuru no Yu roughly translates as the crane’s bath, taking its name from this incident. The spring water contains sodium chloride, and it is said that this alleviates neuralgia, muscular diseases, joint diseases, chronic rheumatism, and other ailments.
- Tsuru no Yu
- Opening Hours: 4:00-22:00 (No Entry after 11:30)
- Open Everyday
- Entrance Fee: Adult 250 yen, Child 100 yen (Free for children 3 and under)
- Tel. 0172-54-8591
- 79 Tsuruizumi Nuruyu, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
Take the Konan Bus (Nurukawa Line) for approximately 30 minutes from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line, or for approximately 60 minutes (Okawara Line) from Hirosaki Station. Get off at Shimo Nuruyu bus stop and walk for approximately 5 minutes.
The rare culture of "bathing out" and kyakusha
Long ago in the onsen areas of Tsugaru, it was common to stay in a lodging called a kyakusha that did not have a bath of its own. Guests would instead go to the public bathhouse nearby, and they had to prepare their own meals as well. Kyakusha still remain in Nuruyu Onsen even in modern times, making the area especially remarkable.
The original guesthouse?
Goto Onsen Kyakusha
Currently, Goto Onsen Kyakusha is the only kyakusha remaining in Aomori that doesn't have a bath and requires guests to cook their own meals. The nostalgic wooden building has a refined atmosphere and was built from the Edo period to the Meiji period. The rooms are all partitioned by sliding doors, and the kitchen and toilet are both shared. Guests stay in close proximity to each other, but the distance creates the opportunity for new encounters and might be reassuring to solo travelers. Perhaps kyakusha would be called guesthouses today.
- Goto Onsen Kyakusha
- Price: 3000 yen per night. Breakfast: 1000 yen Dinner: 1500 yen (Reservation required for meals)
- Tel. 0172-54-8318
- 23 Tsuruizumi Nuruyu, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
Take the Konan Bus (Nurukawa Line) for approximately 30 minutes from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line. Get off at Shimo Nuruyu bus stop and walk for approximately 5 minutes.
Enjoy the nostalgic scenery outside the kyakusha window
Goto Onsen Kyakusha is located just across from the public bathhouse Tsuru no Yu. There is a veranda by the window that can be used as a space to interact with the other guests or just to cool off your flushed body after a dip in the hot bath. There is even a cute doggy living in the courtyard!
Ryokan architecture adrift with romance
Izuka Ryokan
The proprietress here is the 16th generation head of this ryokan. Even within Nuruyu Onsen, which began operations 400 years ago, Izuka Ryokan has a long history. The building’s history and the warmth of its wooden architecture are especially appealing. Long ago, it was run as a kyakusha; it had no bath and guests had to cook their own meals. Now it has its own bath, which uses water from Nuruyu’s source spring.
- Izuka Ryokan
- Max. Occupancy: 30
- Price for 1 Night & 2 Meals: From 8000 yen
- Tel. 0172-54-8303
- 60 Tsuruizumi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
Take the Konan Bus (Nurukawa Line) for approximately 30 minutes from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line. Get off at Shimo Nuruyu bus stop and walk for approximately 5 minutes.
A large kokeshi greets you at the door
A large lantern shaped like a kokeshi doll stands at the entrance to this inn waiting to greet guests. Its smile is even warmer when it is lit up after the sun sets. Izuka Ryokan has a cedar bath that uses water that is about 60 degrees Celsius, which comes directly from the source of Nuruyu’s hot spring. In summer and winter, the water is adjusted to the ideal temperature so that the bath will warm you to the core all year round. Day visitors are welcome, but reservations must be made three days in advance by phone. (Entrance Fee: 300 Yen)
Overlooking the Aseishi River
Itadome Onsen
Located on the opposite shore from Ochiai Onsen, Itadome Onsen began operations in 1624. It is said that long ago, a plank (ita) was used to stop (dome) and divert boiling spring water from the Aseishi river to fill the baths, which is why it is called ‘Itadome’. In the past, there were three public bathhouses lined up along the river called Ue no Yu, Naka no Yu, and Shita no Yu, meaning upper, middle, and lower bath, respectively. Currently, the side of the river is lined by many hot spring inns and guesthouses. You can even visit the baths for a day-trip!
- Itadome Onsen
- Tel. 0172-52-3488(Kuroishi Tourism Association)
- Itadome, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
Take the Konan Bus (Nurukawa Line) for approximately 30 minutes from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line, or for approximately 60 minutes (Okawara Line) from Hirosaki Station. Get off at Itadome bus stop.
Moisturize your skin in the beautifying waters
Tabi no Yado Saikawa
This onsen uses 100% natural hot spring water that has heat-retaining and moisturizing properties, making it perfect for beautifying your skin. There is also an outdoor cauldron-bath for one; take a dip and enjoy a moment of supreme bliss. Time will fly by as you browse the collection of antiques and local Tsugaru crafts that decorates the inn’s interior.
- Tabi no Yado Saikawa
- Spring Quality: Sodium-chloride, sulfate bath
- Health Benefits: Good for skin diseases, muscular disorders, neuralgia, women’s diseases, and more.
- Tel. 0172-54-8308
- 8-1 Miyashita Itadome, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
Take the Konan Bus (Nurukawa Line) for approximately 30 minutes from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line, or for approximately 60 minutes (Okawara Line) from Hirosaki Station. Get off at Itadome bus stop and walk for approximately 1 minute.
The view of Mt. Iwaki from the mountains –
a quiet and calming onsen region
Deeper in the mountains than Nuruyu, Itadome Onsen is a remarkable place where you can relax and pass the hours peacefully. The location is very romantic, with the sky dyed red, Mt. Iwaki peeking through the mountains, and lights shining from the onsen inns that line the river. You can relax and listen to the sound of the river rapids as you cool off your flushed body after taking a dip in the onsen.
Boiling hot water! Ochiai Onsen Public Bath
Ochiai Onsen Village lies in between Nuruyu Onsen and Itadome Onsen. These photographs were taken at the public bath managed by locals. Travelers can also use the bath. At the nearby Tsugaru Traditional Craft Center, there is also a (free) foot bath that uses water from Ochiai Onsen.
- Ochiai Onsen Public Bath
- Hours: 6:00-21:00 *Please leave the bath before 21:00
- Entrance Fee: 200 yen
- Spring Quality: Sodium chloride and sulfate spring
- Health Benefits: Rheumatism, neuralgia, women’s diseases, etc.
- Tel. 0172-52-3488(Kuroishi Tourist Association)
- 60-1 Tomita Fukuro, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
Take the Konan Bus (Nurukawa Line) for approximately 30 minutes from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line, or for approximately 60 minutes (Okawara Line) from Hirosaki Station. Get off at Tsugaru Densho Kogeikan・ Kokeshikan Mae bus stop and walk for approximately 1 minute.
2 Refresh Your Mind
Achieve nothingness through Zen meditation at
Rurisan Yakushi-ji Temple
A 2-minute walk from Tsuru no Yu, Yakushi-ji Temple houses the patron buddha of Nuruyu Onsen. Ushiyu Festival’s go-shintai (the physical object within which kami reside) is also enshrined here. The temple is part of the Obaku school of Zen Buddhism, and they offer a Zen meditation experience. It is worth taking the time to achieve ‘nothingness’ in the middle of your trip. You can also hear all kinds of stories from the head priest.
- Rurisan Yakushi-ji Temple
- *Please phone the temple in advance if you want to take part in a Zen meditation experience.
- Tel. 0172-54-8365
- 12-4 Tsuruizumi Nuruyu, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
Take the Konan Bus (Nurukawa Line) for approximately 30 minutes from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line. Get off at Shimo Nuruyu bus stop and walk for 3 minutes.
The 500-year-old Ishiwari Maple Tree
Designated as a prefectural natural monument and estimated to be around 500 years old, the Ishiwari Maple Tree has a strong presence within the temple grounds. The trunk is hollow with a lumpy surface covered in gnarls and knots. You can really sense the vitality of the old tree, which has survived this long.
An ichidai-sama hidden in mysterious woods:
Fukurokannon Shirayamahime Shrine
Shirayamahime Shrine is in the woods on a small hill to the south of Nuruyu Onsen. In the Tsugaru region, the shrine you visit is decided by your Chinese zodiac sign, and shrines that enshrine the patron gods of the zodiac are called Tsugaru ichidai-sama. This shrine is the ichidai-sama for the year of the ox. There is a large 400-year-old ginkgo tree just past the torii gate, and the narrow staircase leads into the woods. Thirty-three different statues of Kannon line the path towards the shrine, and you can truly feel the mysterious and healing nature of the Tsugaru region.
- Fukurokannon Shirayamahime Shrine
- 112 Tomiyama Fukuro, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
20-minute walk from Nuruyu Onsen Public Bath. 15-minute walk from Tsugaru Kokeshi Doll Museum.
Set out on a small pilgrimage using one of the sticks someone has placed by the path
With a steep incline and narrow path, the route is so difficult to walk that you will quickly get out of breath. However, it is much easier if you use one of the walking sticks made from tree branches that someone has placed by the path. The 33 statues of Kannon all have their own personality, which is demonstrated through the positioning of their arms and bodies as well as their different facial expressions.
3 Kuroishi Kokeshi Dolls
One of the sacred sites for traditional kokeshi dolls, which are only found in Tohoku!
Traditional kokeshi dolls are only found in Tohoku! Kokeshi are children’s toys that have been made at hot spring resorts in Tohoku since the end of the Edo period. The shape and design of kokeshi dolls differ depending on the region. Nuruyu Onsen’s kokeshi (Tsugaru Kokeshi) have several distinct characteristics, including bob cuts, narrow waists, and a wide base with a flared hem. The designs usually incorporate Ainu patterns and Nebuta paintings. The Tsugaru Kokeshi Doll Museum has around 400 different kokeshi on display. They also sell a variety of kokeshi goods and souvenirs.
Create your own original kokeshi doll
At the Tsugaru Kokeshi Doll Museum, Tsugaru Kokeshi artisans personally teach you how to make your own kokeshi. Try your hand at designing your own one-of-a-kind original kokeshi doll!
- Tsugaru Kokeshi Doll Museum
- Kokeshi Painting Experience: 1,200 yen (a Tsugaru Kokeshi artisan will teach you personally) *Reservation required; please contact the museum for details.
- Opening Hours: 9:00-17:00
- Closed: End of the year (Dec 29th-January 3rd)
- Tel. 0172-54-8181
- 72-1 Tomiyama Fukuro, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
Take the Konan Bus (Nurukawa Line) for approximately 30 minutes from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line, or for approximately 60 minutes (Okawara Line) from Hirosaki Station. Get off at Tsugaru Densho Kogeikan・ Kokeshikan Mae bus stop and walk for approximately 1 minute.
Buy all the kokeshi goods?
The museum sells a lot of products from all regions that use kokeshi dolls as a motif. Every single one is adorable, and you’ll want to buy them all the moment you see them. You can also quench your thirst with some chilled Kokeshi Ramune soda.
Look out for the special goods you can only find in Kuroishi!
A kokeshi artist and Kuroishi-based traditional sweet store collaborated to make the extremely popular Kokeshi Head Manju. The manju are made by wrapping a filling of egg yolk mixed with white bean paste in some springy dough.